This keychain wallet features some pockets to hold everyday items. Options vary. I use to carry a Leatherman Piranha (which is TSA compliant but don’t be too optimistic), a pen, a comb, tweezers, some business cards. The key rings have rivets; for a once-in-a-while job you can try at the local shoe repair store to ask to apply the rivets for you.
My only note here is that pocket width should be adjusted based on what you want to put in it.
This is the pattern I use to make glass cases. This pattern has rolled edges. They are tricky to get right, but they allow to line the case with fabric. I use Italian printed silk. The silk is glued using glue sheets.
The pattern has a couple concentric lines. The inner line is where skiving should start (this is the most difficult part). The fabric should be glued at least up to the stitching points.
If skiving goes wrong, you have the option to patch it with some other leather rectangle, like the blue one in these pictures. Or throw it away and start over.
This is the pattern I use to make belts. It is meant for 40mm wide belts. It is fully stitched (no rivets).
A wedge is needed to shape the belt loop. I recommend letting the loop rest for 48 hours. Wetting the loop will probably bring better results. The loop length should be adjusted based on the leather thickness.
I also recommend thinning the leather on the part where the loop is, with the help of a skiving machine.
Let my first pattern to be related to wires. It’s a cable holder. It’s meant to tidy up your cluttered wires. It doesn’t look like it came out of a datacenter.
This holder is designed to wrap a 10x20x60mm magnet, and stick to a magnetic surface (in the picture, it’s a magnetic glass wall). Dimensions might need a bit of adjustment as Chinese magnets tend to have impredictable sizes.
I’ve picked up leathercrafting as a hobby for several years now. It is kind of my personal take on 3d printing; more functional, more elegant, and when done right your projects will last forever.
I have a bunch of original designs collecting dust, maybe sharing them here will be of use to someone. For the time being, I’m not going to include detailed tutorials, but just the patterns.
There is a fee of 19.99€ per download, but just for today, it’ll be free.
Instead of solving sudokus, why not making something useful for the environment?
Did you ever go to a beach so far away from everything else, so isolated, so hard to access, to find out it is littered anyway? That’s not unexpected: isolated places are gorgeous, but they have nobody that looks after them. Do you remember when #TrashTag was trendy? I might be a couple of years late but I decided to took the matter in my own hands anyway or at least do my part of picking up some bags of trash.
The bamboo tongs are very effective at picking up trash from the sand (also for relocating the occasional jellyfish, if needed). You’ll find out that if you can see trash on the sand surface, it means there will be (a ton of) more trash below. Bamboo is pretty common on the seaside, it’s sturdy, and the tongs are long enough to make me feel safe whatever I pick up.
Making the tongs is simple, but here is a step-by-step guide anyway. Be careful with sharp tools. Find a bamboo stick with at least 2 uncracked sections, ideally around 2cm thick, at least 20cm long. Cut it sideways so that you keep a “knot” about 2cm from the tip.
If your Swiss army knife has a reamer, it’s a good time to use it as a drill tip to make a hole. Do it about 2cm from the knot, on both sides of the bamboo.
Then with a knife make a cut at the side of the hole, pointing down the long end. The round hole will prevent the crack from going upwards.
You’ll end up with a chopstick-like bamboo strip, that you can discard.
Starting from the round hole again, cut diagonally. Try to cut in a straight line. Don’t overdo it and don’t rush it. Don’t cut the bottom away. Make several incremental passes. The bottom end of the tong should be almost flat.
Pinch the tong to check it is straight. Flatten the contact points so that the whole border touches each other.
That’s it. Don’t forget to bring a small bag with you; the best places to go don’t have trash bins, so a bag is always handy to clean after yourself, and with a simple tool you can also leave the place a little better than how you found it.
I’ve been reading Justin Warner’s excellent cooking book The laws of cooking: and how to break them. I tried to make an extreme summary of the laws, and represent them as Venn diagrams, where each set in the diagram is a set of flavours that work well together according to the book. Do not worry, it’s not a spoiler: the book is still very worth buying.
I was expecting something more complicated to show up: only 3 flavours belong to more than one set (if we don’t count “Salty”, which goes well with everything). And this is including a slight personal “update” to the laws that I made, by splitting the “sour” flavour in two different flavours: “sweet” and “acid”. Also, for those of you that try to avoid fat foods, I have bad news.
I wrote this article back in 2012, to workaround some limitations in the Hydrogen drum machine. It was impossible to control the hi-hat from closed to open (and viceversa) seamlessly, so I wrote a MIDI router to fix it.
Here you can see it in action:
I wrote this script mostly in order to improve the Hydrogen hi-hat feeling, but I accidentally added a couple other features too.
It can seamlessly switch from closed to open hihat (and vice-versa), supports cymbals choke (both the ride, crash and via the hi-hat pedal), and slightly improves the dynamics range.
mididings (on Debian or Ubuntu, sudo apt-get install mididings)
this script: https://github.com/simonebaracchi/continuous-hh (if you have less or more than 7 hi-hat samples like I did, you’d better modify “hihats_pedal_range” in this script to make it match your number of samples)
in Hydrogen, setup your kit like this:
first sample from the top: footclick (will be note 36)
sample #2: completely closed hihat (will be note 37)
sample #3: slightly less closed hihat (will be note 38)
… and so on…
then, all the other instruments (it is crucial that all the hihats are consecutive, and my script expects to find the first on note #37)
in Hydrogen, disable all mute groups (they don’t sound great for this purpose), disable “ignore note-off”, and make it listen to channel 9 if it’s not already so (channel 10 does not seem to be good for noteoffs, maybe it’s faulty in mididings, i don’t know)
in your edrum: use channel 9, set footclick to note #36, hihat to note #37 (both open and closed if you have both), and hihat pedal to CC#04 (it’s called “foot(4)” on mine)
launch script (“mididings -f <script>”), route your midi data into mididings, then from mididings to hydrogen (or another sequencer, maybe for recording, if you like), start banging on your edrum, you should be good to go.
I’ve been looking the web up and down for a 1/4″ chuck or 1/4″ drill bits that could fit the Dremel, and apparently there are a couple of models that advertise to work with it, such as this one:
This 1/4″ chuck is advertised to be compatible with Dremel. The brand name was covered since I don’t want to publicly criticize this specific product/vendor, but you can find plenty of them on online shops.
I had a little of skepticism as nobody seems to be using those.
I did the only logical(?) thing and bought one to test it out.
I hope I don’t have to buy into every scam to prove it’s a scam.
And, well, guess what, it can’t fit the Dremel, the threading is too big.
But at least I could write a blog post about it so you don’t have to buy it and test it yourself.
As far as my research goes, the biggest drill bit you can use with a Dremel is the “Brad point drill bit” (you can find more info on the official Dremel page) which goes up to 1/4″, but that’s it. In this case I was going to drill a hole for a 1/4″ audio jack, which needs to be slightly bigger than the jack itself (about 3/8″) so I guess I’ll have to use another drill.
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